Thursday, 19 March 2015

Baselworld 2015 Longines & Tudor ... Looking at Some Other Watches

Note all these views and for the Pateks in the post below are just from press pics. Final determination of yay or nay will be after seeing them in the metal. 
  • Longines got it right with the Pulsometer Chronograph, very nice vintage lines. 
  • Tudor got it wrong with the North Flag, it looks like one of those quartz Emporio Armani watches or something similar to that.
  • The Blue Pelagos' blue looks a bit off to me, too bright, from what live pics I have seen or maybe just not to my taste. five lines of text seems a bit much but don't matter much to me as the overall design doesn't do it for me. Helium escape valve vs Gas escape valve... the latter just sounds like what some might call their... nevermind 
The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph
Longines draws upon its rich watchmaking heritage in reviving one of its 1920s models that was essentially used for medical purposes. Its pulsometric scale meant this monopusher chronograph made it possible not only to measure time, but also the heartbeat in a simple, reliable and accurate manner. Pulse measurements used to be taken over a 60-second period and involved counting the exact number of heartbeats during that entire time. The procedure was not always very rigorous and the creation of the pulsometer served to remedy such potential imprecision. Like the original model, The Longines Pulsometer Chronograph uses the chronograph hand sweeping around the pulsometric scale to indicate the patient’s pulse on the dial after just 30 beats.

  • Movement: Mechanical automatic monopusher column-wheel chronograph L788.2 calibre, developed by ETA exclusively for Longines, 27 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, 54-hour power reserve
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, chronograph, pulsometer, date
  • Case: Steel, 40 mm Crown-integrated single pusher Sapphire crystal and back Water-resistant to 3 bar (30 m /100 ft)
  • Dial: Lacquered white Red pulsometric scale 9 painted Arabic numerals “Breguet” type blued steel hands
North Flag with new in-house movement [slightly tissot looking perhaps? or less than chf200 swatch]
In the early 1950s, Tudor set out with the British North Greenland Expedition, an adventure during which the reliability, precision and resistance of Tudor's watches proved vital for the expedition's scientists. Inspired by these cornerstones of its history, and by vast expanses of untamed territory, the brand presents North Flag, which is driven by the first movement to be entirely developed and manufactured by Tudor. Made to perform, the MT5621 Manufacture calibre delivers an impressive power reserve of some 70 hours, which is shown at 9 o'clock. Beating at 28,800 vibrations/hour, it is fitted with a variable inertia balance with silicon balance spring, held by a transversal bridge that is secured at each end to fully withstand shocks and vibrations. Further benefits include a bi-directional automatic winding system and COSC chronometer certification – another first for Tudor.

  • Movement: Mechanical automatic, Tudor MT5621 manufacture calibre, COSC-certified chronometer, variable inertia balance, silicon balance spring, 28 jewels, 28,800 vib/h, approximately 70-hour power reserve
  • Functions: Hours, minutes, seconds, date, power-reserve indicator
  • Case: Satin-finish steel, 40 mm Double bezel, steel and ceramic Sapphire crystal front and back Water-resistant to 100 metres (10 bar/330 ft)
  • Dial: Black Luminescent hands, numerals and hour-markers
  • Bracelet/strap: Leather or steel with folding clasp
Blue Pelagos with new in-house movement in Ti (list is CHF4.2k)
the ceramic bezel with luminous is cool... Titanium, unidirectional rotatable bezel graduated 
over 60 minutes with ceramic matt blue or black disc and graduations with white luminescent material

In case you can't read it... the 5 lines say: 
500m ~ 1640ft

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