Thursday, 8 October 2009

... hansel... he's so hot right now... hansel...

'Mugatu is so hot right now he could take a crap, wrap it in tinfoil, put a couple fish hooks on it and sell it to Queen Elizabeth as earrings...'
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the post title and the line above comes straight out of zoolander, where derek seems to have met his match in the younger blonder hansel and mugatu is the hot designer of the moment... of course they are both apropos for something else thats hot! boomz baby! (raphmeister trying & failing to be subtle :) hehe... and its the h. moser & cie perpetual one...

... that moser... its so hot right now ;)

winner of the fave complication watch at GPdH Geneve 2006... an impressive feat 1 year out of the blocks but than it was a no show...
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whats cool about it?
1. the most important ting about it is that its the simplest cleanest looking perpetual calendar out there today...
2. a technical innovation
(a) flash calendar mechanism, instant jump from the last day of the month to day 1 of the next month.
(b) can set it backwards and forwards
(c) can set it at any time
3. hand wound 7 day power reserve with pr indicator of course
4. interchangeable escapement module - ease and speed of servicing as they replace the escapement module...
5. strong unique case design and a very good size for a modern classic dress watch...40.8mm and thickness to be confirmed... convex back lets it sit well on the wrist... someone mentioned about scalloping and i immediately thought of seafood...
6. andreas strehler was involved in the design of the mechanism... a former renaud et papi boy... an independent medium weight as a harry winston opus creator (no.7, 1 of those post-max)... dats pretty cool :)
7. cool technical details - slotted screws, dragon lever, pallet fork and escapement wheel in hardened gold, their own balance springs
8. Double-Pull-Crown mechanism.. 1st pull for date and 2nd pull for time... for ease of time and date setting.
9. subjective point on looks... the white gold or plat with ruthenium dial version is so hot! :)
10. divider-less big date is nice... at least theres no blank or '0' numerals appearing for the 10s digit
11. great price point - list in the high S$50s and selling for around S$40k... its a steal and affordable/achievable to most [to the guy with a watch budget of lets say s$20k a year(so many people are way above this category), u can get it now and do a 2 years installment plan on it :) raph is evil...]

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Have you ever wondered if there was more to life, other than being really, really, ridiculously good looking?
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whats not so hot... or the "You is talking loco and I like it!" section ;)
1. it took 3+ years to start delivering the regular run of production pieces. introduced in baselworld Mar 2006 and deliveries for regular production pieces in Aug 2009... 3 and a half years... (it cant touch volker vyskocil though for the most time to deliver a watch ;) [only one piece was out there for 2+ years, delivered at basel 2007 to jeff kingston. it did have issues that had to have it sent back for a change of movement but then its reported to be working fine since]
2. the rest of the range is so so... it needs improved stablemates... wats up with that huge a$$ 12???
3. interchangeable escapement module - ok so they replace the module, i assume the customer bears the cost, i don't think its gonna be cheap. next what are they gonna do to the old modules they have? oil and cleanup and put it into the next watch that comes in for servicing perhaps? or perhaps not... have to hear from them what they do with it...
its said owners can send the watch in again to have their old escapement put back after servicing... so many pros and cons i wont go into it, u can figure it out...
4. legitimacy of a relaunched brand an issue? this is not a negative point as lange did it very well due to gunther blumlein's genius. the guy who relaunched it, dr jurgen lange also found his version of walter lange in robert nicholas balsinger who is a descendant, great grandson, of heinrich moser... hey if it worked for 'a lange & sohne', it'll work for 'h moser & cie'
5. *new points here and below* they also don't pride themselves much for accuracy or servicing. a mate of mine had a problem with his mayu which was running too fast, +18seconds a day, which is ok if they agreed to rectify it. what happened was that he got a response that +18secs a day was acceptable! dudes, come on... +18secs a day acceptable? after my mate pushed harder they agreed to rectify & regulate it. oh and he wasn't dicking around with the service centre staff it was a marketing head who told him 18 seconds wasn't a problem. jeez... talk about customer service.
6. QC won't be the best as they are a small house..

ok and before you dismiss this as just another review post with mostly stock pictures from the brand, the raphmeister is gonna treat u with a couple more live pics fresh from last nite :)

additional point to note, these r pics of a new piece that has just been delivered and signifies the beginning of deliveries of this watch. they have sorted what issues they had in production and its going ahead although output isn't gonna be high... official number is 2-3 a month... meaning demand may outstrip supply (unless one is willing to wait... and wait... and wait) and dat can only mean one thing for prices...


[ click to read the rest of the post... expand or collapse ]


There was a moment last night, when she was sandwiched between the two Finnish dwarves and the Maori tribesmen, where I thought, "Wow, I could really spend the rest of my life with this woman"... replace woman with 'moser' in the sentence... uttered by a mate who was also at the freak fest last nite ;)

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- for those who do not have a perp and were originally shooting for a nice simple classic dress watch than this has so much more oomph. buy this.
- for those looking for a simple classic perpetual, this wins out over all out there and that is saying something. buy this.

its not right to compare different interpretations of a perpetual calendar as they are different... [eg. u don't compare a bentley to a lamborghini even though you own both as they are both good in their own way or a vintage ferrari dino to a mercedes sl black] however having met a fair number of watch nuts out there, i assure u some of them will make the mistake of doing so... for me, i say its wise to enjoy the variety and choice available ;)
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hope u enjoyed the short review. cheers, raph

PS. my thanks to the owner and congrats to him for snagging such a fine and last time i'll say it, hot timepiece :) the force is strong in him... must have played some serious jedi mind trick on the retailer... 'i am the buyer you are looking for... move it along to me' ;)

6 comments:

darth-khips said...

howdy,

excellent review, got nothing to add really.the shot of the 3 pert calenders, and their different interpretation on the presentation of dates n days are interesting.

IWC - complicated interface that result in a crowded dial, but information galore

Moser - clear functional presentation with no superfluous data, simple elegance and stealth

VH - at first quirky presentation of data, but actually very logical breakdown, esp when one gets familiar with it. each "porthole" serves its own info set, no "sharing" councters like the other two

Raphael Too said...

hey darth

glad u liked the review... good take on the different presentations of the perp calendars.

if u scroll down a post theres a big pic of the patek 5970p as well and that is also another fantastic way of presenting a perp calendar with the day and month windows(although wif an added chrono for that one so its a tad more busier)

i should have used the stealth word in my post. but its a bit overused of late with the financial crises not a distant memory as yet... 'stealth wealth' & all :) an interesting notion... for me i believe in wearing what i feel like wearing regardless of what others think or feel is appropriate. thankfully that does not include dresses with feathers on it... yet ;) kiddin of course

cheers
raph

The Grand Wazoo said...

Great review, Raph.

To my eyes, it looks like Moser pulled off the perfect way to display a per cal and keep a 'clean' look in a watch of this size. I'm also a fan of how Journe executes this in his octa per cal. The independents keep getting better and better. These watch makers are truly some of the greatest artists around.

Anyways, I discovered your blog about a month ago and have been checking daily for new posts. Your photos, taste, and humor are top notch. Keep up the good work.

Raphael Too said...

hi grand wazoo

thanks for the compliment on the blog. its appreciated and i'm glad u're enjoying it.

+1 on your comments. for other folks, to see a pic of the journe perp checkout to the following link:

http://timetapestry.blogspot.com/2009/06/on-my-travels-i-have-seen-most.html

cheers
raph

Albert said...

I was planning to buy the Moser Perpetual One. Wondering whether US%26,000 is reasonable or a very good deal. Has this watch been auctioned and what's the response and record? Anyone?

raphael too said...

US$26k or below S$34k sounds like a reasonable price depending on condition. i haven't kept track of whether perp 1s have been to auction but for the other models they do take price hits on the secondary market as with most watches.

cheers, raph

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